Frauen Zeitung - Modes de Paris 1855 -

Description

Frauen Zeitung was a weekly women's newspaper published between 1849 and 1852. It was founded in 1849 by writer and women's rights advocate Louise Otto. It was seen as a voice for women in its time and is today considered an important historical source for the early German women's movement. The two female figures in the engraving clearly embody the crinoline silhouette of the 1850s. The waists are narrowed while the skirts widen in a bell shape. This appearance is achieved by adding volume with a lighter skeleton/crilloline structure instead of heavy inner skirt layers. The skirts in both figures feature a prominent, domed volume, layered-striped finishes at the hem, and a "light-reflecting" surface of the fabric (possibly a silk/satin effect). The upper bodies are fitted, establishing the typical "narrow waist-wide skirt" ratio of the crinoline era. Lace details at the cuffs reinforce the "respectability" code of daytime wear. Lace is both a status symbol and a sign of refinement. The dark, shawl-like outer layers that drape over the shoulders serve both a seasonal function and present the figure within a dramatic framework. Head coverings (bonnets) and ribbon ties are directly related to the etiquette and public appearance rules of the period. The "controlled" covering of the hair shows how female identity was regulated in the public sphere.